الفهرس 
LITERATURE REVIEWOnly 14 pages are availabe for public view
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Abstract
Seamless shaped technology creates entire complete garment
with minimal or no cutting and sewing to produce finished or semifinished
garments. It has a number of advantages over the traditional
cut and sewn products. Cutting and sewing are often manually
executed which introduces human errors. The sewing process can
create needle holes and damage the fabric.
Seamless shaped method eliminates the cut and sews
processes, shortens the manufacturing process and reduces material
wastage. In addition, seams in garments create bulkiness especially at
the shoulders and underarms, which may adversely affect the comfort
of the user. On the other hand, seamless shaped articles offering
greater comfort and better fit to wearers by eliminating seams.
There were trials to produce seamless woven fabrics using
weaving machines by making some changes on the machine setting to
produce woven tubular fabrics which can be used to produce seamless
shaped articles. Most of these trials were used in medical applications
(narrow fabrics) and some other trials made to produce seamless
shaped garments (wide fabrics). Most of these trials have limitations
and need more studies.
This research aimed to produce seamless shaped woven
garments with predetermined dimensions using tubular double cloth
woven fabrics with different structural parameters to produce shapes.
To achieve this goal, the research covered the following steps;
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1. Study the effect of changing different structural parameters
such as; (weave structure, pick density, weft tension, weft
yarn count and weft yarn type) on the fabric width
shrinkage using Six different weft yarns listed below:
- 100% cotton yarn of 20/1, 30/1, 40/1 and 40/2 (Ne)
- Cotton – Polyester (25 – 75%) yarn of 40/2 (Ne)
- Cotton – Polyester (50 – 50%) yarn of 16/1 (Ne)
- Cotton – Spandex (94.7 – 5.3 %) yarn of 15/1 (Ne)
- Cotton – Spandex (93.3 – 6.7 %) yarn of 20/2 (Ne)
- Cotton – Spandex (96.9 – 3.1 %) yarn of 26/1 (Ne)
2. One warp (40/2 Ne Cotton – Polyester (25 – 75 %) was
used to produce all fabric samples formed for this research.
3. Four groups of fabrics have been produced in a total of 83
different tubular fabrics as follows;
- group (1) includes tubular woven fabrics with different
weave structures; Plain 1/1, Twill 1/3 and Sateen 4. Weft
yarn materials used for this group include non elastic
yarns, 40/2 Ne Cotton-Polyester (25 – 75 %) and 40/2
Ne 100% Cotton, and yarns containing spandex of
counts 15/1, 20/2 and 26/1 Ne Cotton-Spandex (94.7 –
5.3 %), (93.3 – 6.7 %) and (96.9 – 3.1 %) respectively.
- group (2) was formed from tubular woven fabrics with
three different pick densities – 18, 20 and 22 picks/cm –
for each layer of the double fabric in a total of 36, 40 and
44 picks/cm, respectively, for the whole fabric using
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elastic and non elastic wefts. The non elastic weft yarns
include 20/1, 30/1 and 40/1 Ne from 100% Cotton,
while the elastic weft yarns include 15/1 and 26/1 Ne
Cotton-Spandex (94.7 – 5.3 %) and (96.9 – 3.1 %)
respectively.
- group (3) was produced from tubular woven fabrics
with three different weft tensions (low, medium and
high), using 16/1 Ne Cotton-Polyester (50 – 50%) as a
non elastic weft and 15/1 Ne Cotton-Spandex (94.7 – 5.3
%) as an elastic weft.
- group (4) includes tubular woven fabrics produced to
study the effect of changing weft yarn counts on fabric
shrinkage using 100% Cotton weft yarns in three sizes,
20/1, 30/1 and 40/1 Ne.
4. A shuttle weaving machine (Tsudakoma “LK” type loom),
model year 1977, used to produce all fabrics throughout
double cloth technique which consist of two series of warp
threads, and two series of weft threads, face and back,
making a two-ply fabric, upper layer and lower layer.
5. All fabrics produced were washed, dried and heat set
without applying tension.
6. The width shrinkage percentage was calculated for each
fabric. The shrinkage was determined for fabric off the
loom (grey) and finished state by traditional measurement
of the fabric width in grey and finished states.
7. The produced fabrics were evaluated and relationships were
studied as follows:
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- The effect of changing different structural parameters
(weave structure, pick density, weft tension, weft yarn
count and weft yarn type) on fabrics dimensional
changes has been studied. These include:
· The effect of changing the weave structure on the
fabric shrinkage
· The effect of changing the pick density on the fabric
shrinkages
· The effect of changing the weft tension on the fabric
shrinkage
· The effect of changing weft yarn count on the fabric
shrinkages
· The effect of altering yarn type (yarns containing
spandex and yarns without spandex) on fabric
shrinkage
8. The 83 fabrics using different structure parameters in this
study were arranged in an ascending order in terms of the
finished width.
9. A total number of 12 hypothetical ladies outer garments
were designed and constructed using one tubular woven
fabric for each garment. The designs made by combining
more than one fabric with different finished shrinkage
along the length of the same garment. Garments were
designed to fit different sizes (S, M, L and XL) depending
mainly on three basic measurements; bust, waist and hips
according to the standard women’s body of W. Aldrich. The
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first 6 designs combining two or more fabrics with high
difference in finished width in one garment gives the effect
of gathering. The other 6 designs were made to shape the
bodyline by combining several fabrics with different width
using the same fabric’s width on the loom.
10. 16 designs for ladies outer garments were established using
different combinations of fabric specifications for each
design to achieve the target size according to the shrinkages
results of the 83 experimental fabrics. These combinations
are varied to obtain different sizes of women’s garments
according to the main measurements of the standard
women’s body of W. Aldrich.
11. Designs made to be suitable to be worn without any need to
use closures to obtain diversity of shapes.
12. Special finishes such as dyeing and printing were used for
the fabrics in order to form end products.
13. The end products are semi-finished garments with no side
seams. Each item has been modeled using a suitable
manikin size. Cutting of some additional parts of fabrics
and sewing using special seams to finish the products such
as neckline, armholes and hem lines using suitable sewing
machines.
14. The Australian Standard stitch type’s reference was used to
add certain stitches to accomplish the semi-finished
garments by joining or by adding decoration.
15. The Australian Standard reference for seams was used as a
guide to the choice of seam types according to the aesthetic
standards of strength, durability, comfort, convenience in
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assembly based on resources available (machinery and
cost).
16. Using special sewing machines for identical stitches to
finish the end products.
Key Words: Seamless, tubular fabrics, shaped woven textiles, fabric
shrinkage, double cloth, structural parameters.