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Abstract
Cairo is including an ancient and popular neighborhoods full of traditional arts which can’t be forgotten, the viewer can see it in the old neighborhoods, stone minarets, domes, and in the ancient craft that have become extinct with the beginning of the twentieth century, such as: Ovary copper, licorice seller, as well as traditional costumes and jewelry which given by the popular features of originality mixed with Egypt’s Arab traditions and customs.
Ancient Cairo was inspiring with many of the most famous writers and artists including our global writer Naguib Mahfouz, who painted a visible reality for the Egyptian popular environment in Cairo, He wrote about Hussein neighborhoods, Khan el-Khalili, and Moski including all of its aesthetic features and details.
So the research focused on the analysis of Cairo landmarks of ancient neighborhoods, alleyways, Architecture, jewelry and Fashion in Old Cairo, as contained in Naguib Mahfouz’s trilogy and specifically in the period (from 1917 to 1919) and this period set out in the events of the ”Palace Walk” novel in terms of: Description features and distinctive patterns of costume folklore, ornaments and architecture in the era of ”Palace walk” novel (from 1917 until 1919), analysis of effects of dynamic and state psychology to the heroes of the ”Palace Walk” novel, including fashion, ornaments, Architecture and novel characters as an inspirational source to create contemporary designs of Haute-couture fashion. Which has been reached to the number (17) fashion collections inspired of the heritage of ancient Egypt and the characters in ”Palace Walk” novel, then made a statistical study on a 200 sample of students from different faculties to measure the degree of students acceptance of the proposed designs, and after obtaining the final results of the designs have been implemented some designs which got the highest degree of acceptance of the sample.
The research includes six chapters. These chapters can be summarized as follows:
The First Chapter:-
Includes the plan of research which in turn , includes the introduction that gives an explanatory idea about the field of study.
The problem of research:-
Heritage was taken as an inspirational source of essential design sources in many designs, but the researcher is trying to summarize the problem in the following questions:
1- what is the possibility of fashion design recognition according to the historical inspiration source ?.
2 - What is the possibility of identifying Naguib Mahfouz’s triology to monitor the clothes’ heritage features in the early twentieth century ? .
3 - What is the possibility of identifying Cairo heritage in the early twentieth century through Naguib Mahfouz’s literature? .
4 - How to design fashion collections inspired from the perception of Naguib Mahfouz ’s literature to Cairo heritage of this period ? .
5 - What is the possibility of identifying heritage fashion for men and women in the early twentieth century as portrayed by Naguib Mahfouz’s literature? .
6 – Is it possible to see the folklore (folk heritage) as an inspirational source through literary works which pushes the fashion designer to create distinctive haute couture fashion for modern woman?
7 - What is the possibility of the implementation of innovative designs suitable for girls age group (from 18 to 25 years) to measure the extent of their acceptance for this designs ? .
The objectives of research:-
1- Description of heritage traditional clothes and folklore motifs in the era of trilogy and especially ”palace walk”. (from 1917 until 1919).
2- Description of the distinctive features of architecture in Naguib Mahfouz’s Cairo neighborhoods.
3- Analysis of dynamic effects and psychological status of the ”Palace walk” characters and its affect on the fashion design in that era.
4- Predict what could be described and analysis of the artistic style in the ”palace walk” novel and what it could add to the haute couture fashion.
5- Develop controls that can be followed to produce fashion designs inspired by the popular traditional style.
The importance of research:-
1- Shed light on literary arts as Influential in the artistic and historical heritage and its role in shaping the folk fashion as part of the narrative of the life situations of those arts.
2- Use folk fashion as methods and patterns as part of the national heritage arts shape which can inspire from it to create the contemporary designs for haute couture fashion.
3- Use heritage Cairo architecture features and its impact on contemporary fashion inspiration for haute couture fashion
4- Developing the fashion designer’s ability to create the contemporary designs of heritage in general and especially haute couture fashion.
Research hypotheses:-
The researcher assumes that:
1- The study of literary heritage of ”Palace Walk” contributes to highlight the aesthetic features and realism of the fashion and it’s accessories in this era, and it helps to create distinctive and innovative designs for haute couture fashion.
2- Folklore of architecture, folk jewelries and heritage crafts helps to enrich the aesthetic value of the haute couture fashion in the spirit of the accompanying heritage of the era.
Limits of research:-
Search limited to the following:
1- Analytical study of fashion and folk jewelries through trilogy and specifically ”Palace Walk” novel and the incident takes place in the period from 1917 until 1919.
2- The study of architectural heritage art works of Naguib Mahfouz’s Cairo heritage which located in neighborhoods Hussein, Khan el-Khalili , El Gamalia.
3- Personalities study of ”Palace Walk” novel characters as a source of inspiration.
4- Create haute couture fashion design s for girls’ age start from 18 to 25 years old suitable for the night period.
Methodology of research:
The researcher used the following:
1- Historical methodology.
2- Descriptive analysis methodology.
3- Applied methodology.
Instruments and terminology:
1- A field survey photographing.
2- Referendums restricted by a list of questions and choose among possible answers designed by the researcher.
3- Open referendum provides an opportunity to answer free without adherence to choose of researcher’s designs.
4- Referendum designed by the researches which included the researcher’s created designs to determine the nature of the problem and the type of respondents.
5- Manual methods available to implement the models.
6- Methods available for scientific research such as: books and internet.
Search Terms:-
Included the basic terms of research and Previous literature.
Literature:-
It includes related previous literature of the research subject, they are classified to:
1- Studies related to design and fashion.
2- Studies related to Cairene style:
- Firstly: Studies related to Heritage costumes
- Secondly: Studies related to architecture
3- Studies related to Naguib Mahfouz’ literature.
The Second Chapter:
This part contains concepts of the design process and fashion and a detailed explanation of its elements, in addition to the scientific and technical basis for both of the quote and inspiration in fashion design in terms of the sources of inspiration and their theoretical concepts.
The third Chapter:
Firstly: it Contains the definition of the word ”literature”, analyzing the relationship literature and its impact on other arts, also shed the light on the biography of novelist global Naguib Mahfouz, and the following stages of his creations literary: historical stage, realistic and post-realism, and the study of the ”palace walk” novel, and the reality of political life social which represented by the trilogy, especially ”Palace walk” novel.
Secondly: it contains the description and analysis of Naguib Mahfouz’ Cairo which mentioned in the trilogy especially in the first part of it ”Place walk” novel, the study of popular neighborhoods such as the Khan el-Khalili, Gamalia, Moez Ldin Allah Fatimid street, in addition to the analytical study of the popular neighborhoods Egyptian houses which helps to know the life style of the novel’s characters, the study of the heritage and popular jewelries and toiletry and their raw materials.
The Fourth Chapter:
Firstly: it contains the study of the origin heritage and popular fashion for women in Egypt, specifically in the ”Palace Walk” novel of the year (1917 AD to 1919 AD), the researcher dealt it with the description and analysis to determine the characteristics of fashion in that period and the factors influencing them, with the presentation of some images that illustrate the costumes in this period and make comparisons whenever necessary, and the evolution of the right and led to the change.
Secondly: Included the study of the origin of men’s costumes of the bourgeois class in Egypt and focus on the ”Palace Walk” novel (from 1917 AD to 1919 AD), and shed light on their evolution which led to the change.
The Fifth Chapter:
This chapter includes on practical applications which is made by the researcher through the design of seventeen collection inspired by both fashion and popular jewelries, the ”Palace Walk” characters and architecture, Also one design has been implemented of the best of fashion collections according to the results of the field study and take it up by analysis.
This research also included the results of the field study of girls’ opinion poll under the age of (18 to 25) years old to measure their admitted for the fashion designs ideas.
The Sixth Chapter:
Included the results of the research which answered the questions that defines the problem and recommendations on the subject of search that must be taken into account , and also included the photo session of the chosen fashion design.
ABSTRACT OF RESEARCH
The name of researcher: Rodania Mohamed Rashad.
The address: Cairo Heritage in Naguib Mahfouz Literature as an Inspirational Source of original Haute couture fashion.
The region of research: Ready Made Garment Department – Damietta University.
Subject Of The Research: The research focused on the analysis of Cairo landmarks of ancient neighborhoods, alleyways, Architecture, jewelry and Fashion in Old Cairo, as contained in Naguib Mahfouz’s triology and specifically in the period (from 1917 to 1919) and this period set out in the events of the ”Palace Walk” novel in terms of: Description features and distinctive patterns of custome folklore, ornaments and architecture in the era of ”Palace walk” novel (from 1917 until 1919), analysis of effects of dynamic and state psychology to the heroes of the ”Palace Walk” novel, including fashion, ornaments, Architecture and novel characters as an inspiritional source to create contemporary designs ofr Haute-couture fashion.
The research contains:
- The plan of the research.
- The previous and related studies.
- The study of the elements of the design process and the inspiration and quotation and the benefit of them.
- The study of literary art and its impact on other arts, especially the art of fashion design.
- Cairo between reality and creativity in the world of Naguib Mahfouz.
- The study of folk fashion for both women and men.
- The practical application results and recommendations.
Keywords:
- Folk fashion
- Fashion design
- Quotation
- Inspiration
- Literature